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2004 Frozen Four - Getting Around Boston
This is a list of bars, restaurants, locations, transportation, and other items
of interest gleaned from a variety of sources. You may be interested to know that there
is a ban on smoking in all bars and restaurants in Boston. When the urge for that
nicotine fix hits you'll have to step outside. Hopefully the information helps people
find things to do on their Frozen Four trip to Boston. Some of the information is
from personal experience while some is from other sources like USCHO and Inside College
Hockey.
Boston is a great town when it comes to hosting a National Championship; it's a
city with a great history of hockey and there are tons of things to do when the games
are not being played. That being said, it's a terrible town to drive in, especially
downtown and in the areas around the FleetCenter. So does that make it a town to
stay away from when the Frozen Four is around? Absolutely not!! They make up for the
twisted road system with a great public transportation system. You will find plenty
of taxi's, buses, and trains (subway) to get you from point A to point B and really all around
town.
Attending the 2004 Frozen Four is my second trip to Boston. The first time here
(several years ago) I rented a car and had a devil of a time getting around (twisted
road scheme, lack of parking, traffic jams, etc...). I swore then that if I ever
returned to Boston I would NOT have a car. Here I am, six or seven years later, and
I remembered my vow and didn't even bother with a car. I haven't missed it at all,
in fact it's been a far more enjoyable experience without having to deal with all those
driving and parking issues.
Getting Around Town
The main mode of transportation is the subway - known locally as the "T" (all the
signs have a big "T" on them). There are four main lines (Blue, Red, Orange, and Green)
that take you to all parts of the city. They also connect to commuter rail depots (Amtrak).
If the "T" stop hasn't been right next to where I've wanted to go, my destination has
been within easy walking distance of a "T" stop. It's reasonably priced, reliable, safe,
and beats the heck out of driving. They do have sevearl options available to visitors
from single token purchases to several pass packages (the three day visitor pass was
just $18.00 (2004) and gives me unlimited access to the "T" and the buses). Whether you buy
a pass or purchase individual tokens will depend on your travel plans. If your going
to be moving around town a lot, going in and out of subway/bus stops then I'd recommend
the pass. If your going to travel from where your staying to a spot and then spend the
day in that spot you would probably be better off just buying tokens (buy two at a time
so you have a token for your return trip).
Directions on all lines are determined by Inbound and Outbound directions. This is
determined by your orientation to the main cross over stops in downtown (Park Street
and Downtown station). Your inbound to those locations and outbound from them. A
little hint to finding the right train to get on - know the endpoint of each line (you
can get these from the subway maps). For example on the orange line one end is
Forest Grove, while the other is Oak Grove. I was staying at a hotel right next to
the New England Medical Center stop (on the orange line). The FleetCenter is at
the North Station stop (Orange or Green lines). To get to the FleetCenter I had to
take the inbound train (because I was inbound to the Downtown crossing station)
toward Oakgrove. It's really easy to pick up, once your holding that subway map in
your hand and see how things connect through those two main hubs (Park and Downtown)
you'll understand the inbound/outbound directions.
Places to stay
As I prepared for my trip to Boston for the 2004 Frozen Four I sent an e-mail to
the FleetCenter asking about hotels in the vicinity of the Arena. They recommended
the Millenium Hotel, the Marriott Long Wharf, the Shawmut Inn, The Holiday Inn at
government center, the Beacon Hill Hotel and Bistro, and the John Jeffries Bed and Breakfast.
They also indicated that any other downtown or Copley area hotel would be a short cab
ride away.
The FleetCenter is located in the North Station area of Boston (that's the closest "T"
station to the Arena). While I didn't stay at any of the hotels identified by the
FleetCenter (they were all booked) I did stay at a hotel in the downtown theatre
district called the Tremont Boston Hotel (275 Tremont Street, Boston, MA, 02116,
617-426-1400). Not only was their a "T" station within a block of the hotel making
travel around Boston very easy, there were a number of restaurants and bars in the
area. Also as the name of the district implies there were a number of theatres,
comedy clubs, and music venues in the area. Plenty to do right there when the hockey
wasn't being played.
For some general information on bars and restaurants in and around the greater
Boston area I found two sites (I'm sure there are more) to be helpful. You can start
with a visit to the Beer Advocate home page
and then search for Boston. Another helpful site was the Real Beer
site. Again access thier home page and search for Boston.
Some Brew Pubs and Breweries
John Harvards's Brew House (33 Dunster Street, Cambridge, MA, 02138. 617.868.3585).
As you might have guessed this spot is next to Harvard. Take the "T" red line outbound
toward Alewife and get off at the Harvard Square stop. As you come up to street level you
will be in Harvard Square. In the square is a location called "Out of Town News". There's
A "T" entrance right next to this and one across the square, depending on where you
come out, you'll either cross the square, going past the Out of Town News stand or if
your already on that side of the square head away from the News stand to Dunster and
follow Dunster to John Harvards. It's a minute tops from the square. Food was good
and the beer was also good.
Cambridge Brewing Company (One Kendall Square, Cambridge, MA, 02139, 617.494.1994).
Another Brew Pub in the Cambridge area, but this one has a bit of history. It was not
only one of the first (if not the first) in Boston, it was one of the first Brew
Pubs in the United States. It is only a 10 minutes walk from the Kendall "T" station and
just a couple of blocks from MIT. A casual environment, coupled with a find Ale selection
and a more than adequate food menu make for an enjoyable location. They also have an
outside patio area during the warm months of the year (this was open during my early
April visit). By following the link above to their web site you can get directions
to the Brew Pub by both car and "T".
The Rock Bottom Brewery
is a national chain of breweries that offers a great food menu and a decent selection of
beers and ales. While their beer is definitely better than your average product produced
for mass consumption (aka Bud, Miller, et al), they still tend to stay away from really
distinctive tasting beers. On the other hand each brewery is capable of making beer that
fits well for the community in which they exist. For example in Boston, an area with an
Irish history and a taste for Guiness, many of their beers tended toward a malty flavor
as opposed to an overly bitter or hop driven flavor. While for me the Rock Bottom
breweries are a secondary stop (I do prefer the local oriented Brew Pubs as a first stop)
I've never had a bad experience at any of the Rock Bottoms I've visited.
Watch City Brewing Company has been
provding hand crafted beer and a fine menu since 1996. I didn't make it to this
one so I can add no commentary. It can be found at 256 Moody Street, Waltham, MA,
02453, 781.647.4000.
Some regular bars and restaurants
Bukowski's Tavern (50 Dalton Street, Boston, MA, 02115-3155, 617.437.9999 was a highly recommended place to go by both the concierge at
the Tremont and by the reviewers of the Beer Advocate. They have fine food and a large
selection of beers, both in bottle and on tap (supposedly one of the largest beer
selections in all of Boston). Another place that I wanted to visit, but simply didn't
have time for so I'll pass along a bit of information gleaned from some of the Beer
Advocate reviews. The tavern itself is above the highway and embedded in the side
of a parking garage; it was described as "divey but clean" by one reviewer. The wait
staff is pleasant and helpful, even when pressed for time with a large crowd. Many
reviewers made it a point to say that the music at night can be a bit on the loud
side. Hopefully next time I get to Boston I'll be able to get to Bukowski's.
Red Bones BBQ has become a favorite for
the people in the area and is the place to go for authentic down home southern food.
Another establishment that falls into the wanted to go to, but didn't have time
category. By following the link above you'll get the low down Red Bones.
The Anam Cara Publick House (1648 Beacon Street, Brookline, MA, 02445, 617.277.2880) was another place that I really wanted to get to, but
alas didn't have time for. Another establishment with a wide selection of beers with
over two dozen on tap and over 100 beers in bottles. They carry beers from some of
the local Brew Pubs (like Cambridge Brewing) as well as one offs and experimental
brews from places like Sam Adams and Harpoon. Apparently they also seem to have a
large selection of Belgian beers with all beers served in the proper style of glass.
Just putting this bit of information together makes me regret not making a visit to
the Publick House.
Places to go Around the Fleet
Everything from this point down was gathered from Inside College Hockey.
The Fours (166 Canal Street). Classic sports bar that is a must see for any sports
fan. Next to the FleetCenter it has been a popular stop for years in Boston and they
pack the people in before and after games (don't be surprised to encounter a line at
peak business times). I've been to the Fours, the food was good, the beer selection,
while not large was adequate. All in all any sports fan would enjoy this spot.
Sports Grille Boston (132 Canal Street). A poor mans "Fours", good sports bar if
you want to catch a game on TV.
Hurricane O'Reilly's (150 Canal Street). Good food and a festive atmosphere with
live music on the weekends.
The Penalty Box (65 Causeway Street). If your a fan of dives, this is the place
for you.
Sullivan Tap (168 Canal Street). If you say "Sully" anywhere in Boston, expect to
see twenty people turn around. Nowhere is that more true than here, another dive bar
option with a bit more space than the penalty box.
Coyote Ugly (234 Friend Street). Not the same as in the movie, but it can be
fun. This used to be called something else that more people would recognize, but
the name escapes me.
Boston Beer Works (112 Canal Street, Boston, MA, 02114, 617.896.2337). A newer branch of the popular spot found
near Fenway, you'll find good food and microbrews here.
Near Faneuil Hall
Faneuil Hall is a short walk from the FleetCenter and has another group of fine
watering holes that you may find less crowded than those locations up close to the
FleetCenter.
The Rack (24 Clinton Street). A classy pool hall with live music at night.
Hosted the 2004 Hobey Baker reception after the award ceremony in 2004.
The Bell In Hand (45 Union Street). Billed as Americas oldest tavern, it comes
alive at night. Recently opened some space upstairs, so they can host two bands
on weekend nights. I made it to the Bell the day of the Frozen Four finals and it
lived up to expectations. They have four bars, each with its own room, but all
connected. Since I was there in the afternoon it wasn't packed, but it did a steady
business all day. I don't know about the other rooms, but the one I was in had a
great feature and that was the windows. As the sun warmed the day they were able
to open the windows like shutters letting in both the warmth and the afternoon
breeze. It was like being on the patio with a roof over your head.
The Black Rose (160 State Street). An Irish tavern with good food and live
music every night.
The Purple Shamrock (1 Union Street). Another in a line of pubs that
transform from a nice place to grab a happy-hour beer into a rocking spot at night.
Clarke's Turn of the Century (21 Merchants Row). Not really a nightlife hotspot,
but a good place to grab a pint at the bar and a bite to eat. We're pretty sure
nobody reads the books on the library like shelves, but we suppose you could try.
Near Fenway Park/Kenmore Square
The Dugout (718 Commonwealth Avenue). When they write the history of Boston
University hockey, The Dugout will probably get two chapters devoted to it.
Cask 'N Flagon (62 Brookline Avenue). Just beyond Carlton Fisks foul pole, it's
probably the most popular spot for fans headed to and from the Sox games.
Copperfields (98 Brookline Avenue). A popular spot that comes highly recommended.
Near Copley Square
Dick's Last Resort (55 Huntington Avenue). Big crowds and good nightlife.
Champions Sports Bar (110 Huntington Avenue). A popular sports bar with a good
menu.
The Cactus Club (939 Boylston Street). Everybody comes to Boston for TexMex right?
Whiskeys (885 Boylston Street). Good food and drinks, but it attracts a crowd,
sometimes too big a crowd.
Eating in the North End
- Cantina Italiana (346 Hanover Street)
- Ristorante Fiore (250 Hanover Street)
- Mike's Pastry (300 Hanover Street)
- Bacco (107 Salem Street)
- Pizzeria Regina (11 1/2 Thatcher Street)
For a more formal dinner experience
Legal Sea Foods (multiple locations). While you'll find Legal Sea Food locations
up and down the East Coast, Boston is where it all started. For your seafood fix
there is no better place.
Durgin Park (340 Faneuil Hall Marketplace). This Faneuil Hall restaurant is a
tourist staple, but a more worthwhile one than going to Cheers.
Union Oyster House (41 Union Street). Billed as America's oldest restaurant, it
opened in 1826.
Locke-Ober (3 Winter Place). A classy downtown eatery, it was recently re-opened
but boasts a rich history of serving Boston's well-to-do.
Some other things to do in Boston
- Pro Sports - Don't forget you have the Bruins and the Red Sox playing this
time of year (well at least the Red Sox, the Bruins will be playing if they make the
NHL playoffs).
- The Freedom Trail
- The Museum of Science
- Shop - Boston is a shoppers paradise
- Check out Cambridge
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